Taste | Florida restaurants are about to get their Michelin stars

Plus: 25 spots to eat and drink near the beach

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View on the web Go to our home page Subscribe to the Times Thursday, May 19, 2022 Forward this to a friend Subscribe to more newsletters [ Times (2018) ] It's almost Michelin time... Mark your calendars, folks: Florida restaurants will find out on June 9 whether they snagged a coveted Michelin star.    The guide, arguably the world’s most well-known and respected restaurant ratings system, has never included Florida before. As part of a new partnership with the state's tourism marketing agency, Tampa, Orlando and Miami eateries can now receive stars for the first time ever.    I, for one, could not be more excited, if only for the sheer spectacle of it all. It's bound to be huge — and possibly, controversial —  news for the local restaurant community.    One question I've been asked repeatedly since news of the guide's foray into Florida broke last November is which restaurants I think will make the cut. Of course, I have no idea — no fancy insider Michelin credentials here, I'm afraid.   But I do have some guesses.   Among our local contenders I'd wager that Rooster & The Till probably has one of the best shots at a star or two (restaurants can receive anywhere from one to three). James Beard-nominated chef Ferrell Alvarez and partner Ty Rodriguez have proven many times over that their food can hold its own, and I've been consistently wowed by their creativity and fine-tuned focus on the plate.    I'd also expect to see fine-dining Italian stunner Rocca somewhere on the list and at least one Jeannie Pierola restaurant (my money is on Edison: Food + Drink Lab). I wouldn't be surprised to see high-end Japanese restaurant Koya land a star or two as well as Bern's Steak House, if just for their impeccable hospitality and service.    Beyond that, anybody's guess is as good as mine — Michelin's inspection process is notoriously secretive and the elite guide has received criticism in the past for its tendency to focus exclusively on high-end, fine-dining restaurants while bypassing smaller, more affordable spots (a fair critique, in my book).    Whatever the results of Michelin's big Florida reveal are, one thing is certain: Our restaurant scene is extraordinary, unique, diverse and constantly evolving — no stars needed.  RESTAURANT RADAR [ MARTHA ASENCIO-RHINE | Times ] 25 spots to eat and drink near the beach Have you been outside lately? These sunny, mid-80s days we've been having say it all: It's beach time, y'all.    Folks here have a tendency to downplay the beach restaurant scene and, in some respects, I get it — there are plenty of mediocre tourist traps and lackluster grouper sandwiches to be found. But I'd argue that there are also some pretty spectacular spots. I happen to think a lot of our beach restaurants are, actually, pretty great.    This week, I provided a rundown of some of my favorite spots to eat and drink near Pinellas County beaches. From cozy breakfast cafes to casual lunchtime hangs and waterside spots with a view, we've got your next beach trip covered.    New Southeast Asian spot coming to Midtown Tampa: Chicago-based Sunda New Asian is the latest big-name restaurant chain to announce an opening at the sprawling Tampa development. The restaurant, from celebrity restaurateur Billy Dec, features dishes with Thai, Filipino, Vietnamese and Japanese influences, among others (think: dim sum, sushi, noodle and rice dishes). Once open, the restaurant will also serve craft cocktails, sake and Japanese whiskies as well as offer sushi-rolling classes and sake tastings. Read more about the new spot here.    Ukrainian pierogi spot gets a permanent home: A new Ukrainian diner from the folks behind popular cottage kitchen Pierogi Bar will take over the space formerly home to O'Bistro in West St. Pete. Although there's no timeline yet for when the new restaurant will open, the owners say they've got a pretty good idea what will be on the menu: potato pancakes, Ukrainian borscht and pierogi with potato, cheese, mushroom, sauerkraut and cherry fillings. Here's what else to know.    Are these the best barbecue spots in Tampa? Two local barbecue spots went head-to-head last week on Good Morning America to compete for the best barbecue as part of the show's 'United States of BBQ' competition. Read more here about which Tampa team took home the win, and our thoughts on a few other smokin' spots you should check out.  WHAT I'M EATING RIGHT NOW Dinner at Noble Rice (finally) Last week, I snagged a reservation at Noble Rice, Eric and Adriana Fralick's highly anticipated modern Japanese restaurant at Sparkman Wharf.     This place is in high demand — the first few weeks of their opening, I couldn't get in at all. And when I finally did get a table — an otherwise uneventful Wednesday night —  the place was jam-packed when I arrived, and jam-packed when I left.    Someone must be doing something right.    The restaurant, which is a reincarnation of their original Hyde Park restaurant of the same name, feels polished and finessed, with a high-quality sushi selection (everything is flown in fresh from Tokyo's Toyosu Market) and a modern Japanese menu featuring plenty of creative twists and turns throughout.   It is pricey, however — this isn't your bargain bento box-and-hot sake kind of place.    We started with the negi toro maki ($25), which featured slices of fatty tuna, scallions and a tobanjan kewpie mayo. The roll came served with a black garlic shoyu sauce for dipping and packed a nice, subtle heat at the end (roll shown in photo above).    Here's what else we had: Uni and otoro sashimi: Anywhere I can get uni (the edible part of a sea urchin), I'm ordering it. The version served here ($25) was salty and creamy, and one of my favorite bites. The silky otoro (tuna belly) slices arrived beautifully marbled and practically melted in my mouth ($16).  Shrimp toast: Easily my favorite dish of the evening (and, quite frankly, one of the best dishes I've had anywhere lately), the shrimp toast ($19) arrived warm, golden-fried and crispy, fragrant with a bouquet of fresh mint and other herbs, with a slight sweetness from dollops of hoisin and a little heat from a tobanjan sauce (made with a broad bean chile paste).  Maitake Bleu: This decadent dish ($20) featured smoky, braised maitake mushrooms swimming in a thick sauce of kewpie mayonnaise and blue cheese, drizzled with a yuzu kosho hot sauce and finished with leek ash and shaved radishes. It could have used a little restraint with the cheese, and perhaps a little more acid to cut through some of the richness, but was still tasty, regardless.    🍽️ Got a recommendation? Send me tasty tips here. Contact Helen Freund at hfreund@tampabay.com. 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